Thrummed mittens for bitty baby hands
These mittens were made for my little nannying charge, who loves to chew on woolens, especially on I-cord! She also is notorious for pulling things off of her hands and feet, so these have been made as “lose-proof” as possible through a two-part system. First, they tie onto the hands at the wrist. Second, there is an I-cord that travels from wrist to wrist that can be passed through the sleeves of a sweater.
Let's see you ditch these, kiddo!
Uses scraps and bits and ends. This pattern was made using a DK weight alpaca yarn: probably less than 100 yards, and Corriedale roving.
Size 4 needles (double pointed), gauge is not important so long as they fit the little hands. I used very little thumb shaping, you may decide to do the thumb differently.
HAND
Cast on 24 stitches
k2, p2 rib for 12 rows.
Next row, k2, yo to end (36 stitches)
Knit one row.
**Next row, k2, then pick up a tuft of yarn and knit with that instead of the yarn. It will leave one knit stitch on the outside that is poofy, and a tuft of roving toward the inside of the mitten. Be careful on the next row to not pull the ends out. Continue in this pattern: k2, thrum 1 to the end. **
Knit 3 rows.
Repeat between ** ** to end.
Knit 2 rows.
Isolate 12 stitches to one needle for the thumb. Ignore these until they are picked up again. Knit one row on the remaining 24 stitches.
Repeat between ** ** to end.
Knit 3 rows.
Repeat between ** ** to end.
Knit 1 row.
Next row, k2, k2tog to the end.
Knit 1 row.
K2tog until 7 stitches remain, break off end and pull through remaining stitches.
THUMB
*this thumb is long, you may elect to make it a couple of rows shorter. I wanted to err on the side of having enough room for wiggling.
Pick up 4 stitches from the body of the hand, knit 1 round starting with the stitches picked up from the hand (16 stitches). All decreases start on the inside part of the thumb.
Knit 5, thrum 1, then (knit 2, thrum 1) 3 times.
Knit 1, k2tog, knit to end.
(K2tog, knit to end) 2 times.
Next row k2, thrum 1 to the end of the row.
Knit 1 row.
Knit 1, k2tog to the end of the row.
K2tog to the end of the row, break off yarn and thread end through remaining stitches. Don't tuck in the tails, yet.
TIES
Make two lengths of 4 stitch I-cord about 100 rows long. These are threaded through the loops made by the yarn-over row that increased the diameter of the hand. I made sturdy knots in the ends of mine to make them more difficult to pull through the loops. In the case of the baby mine were made for, they also perform double duty as a teething toy. There will be one hole left. I used the yarn tails that were
left to fill in that extra hole rather than figuring out where I wanted one fewer hole to be in the first place. You may or may not do the same.
On the opposite side of the mitten from the thumb, pick up 4 stitches from the cuff. Mine tied on that side as well, so I centered this pick-up spot right under the hole I filled in. Knit an I-cord long enough to pass through the sleeves of an infant's jacket or sweater with about an inch of dangling ease. This will allow the mittens to be off of the baby's hands but not lost in the sleeves. You may make it long
enough that they could be tied behind the baby's back when they are not in use. My cord ended up being about 250 rows long. Connect the cord to the mitten using kitchener stitch or some similar method, tuck in all tails.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Smoooshy Knee High Socks
I have seriously bicycle-burly calves, and therefore a lot of the knee high patterns I find, I have to alter or give up on, or knit on slightly bigger needles. I experimented with size 5DPNs and sock weight yarn, and came up with this pattern, which I'm rather happy about.
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Smoooshy knee-high socks
(use sock weight yarn; this makes socks that are lightweight and for the most part stay up on their
own.)
Needles size 5 double point (use 4-5)
• Cast on 60 stitches, distribute in a round.
• Work k2 p2 ribbing for 20 rows. (From here I have started over with row 1, numbered rows do
not refer to ribbing.)
• Knit 6 rows in stockinette.
• 7th row of stockinette, knit 2, increase 1. Knit 3 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 10th row knit 4 inc. 1. Knit to 5 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 13th row knit 6 inc. 1. Knit to 7 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 16th row knit 8 inc. 1. Knit to 9 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 9 rows even.
• 26th row knit 10 inc. 1. Knit to 11 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end. (70 stitches)
• Knit 13 rows even.
• 40th row knit 9 k2tog. Knit to 11 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 43rd row knit 8 k2tog. Knit to 10 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 46th row knit 7 k2tog. Knit to 9 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 49th row knit 6 k2tog. Knit to 8 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 52nd row knit 5 k2tog. Knit to 7 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 55th row knit 4 k2tog. Knit to 6 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 58th row knit 3 k2tog. Knit to 5 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 61st row knit 2 k2tog. Knit to 4 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 64th row knit 1 k2tog. Knit to 3 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• 65th row AND 66th row, k2tog, knit to 2 before end of row, ssk. (48 stitches)
• Knit 38 rows even, or the length of the rest of your leg.
• Heel: I favor a half handkerchief heel. With 48 stitches, divide 24 onto one needle and reserve the other half. This heel is worked back and forth and then rejoined to the rest of the sock once it has been turned.
◦ ON 24 STITCHES, *(RS) slip one, knit one, repeat to end of row, turn.
◦ (WS) Slip one, purl to end of row, turn.* Repeat between ** 9 times (18 rows)
◦ You now have a rectangle with long knit stitches on one side and floats on the other. I like the durability of this heel, it's also a little cushion for stiff shoes.
◦ Turn the heel: (RS) Knit 14 stitches (this is half plus 2), k2tog, k1. Slip last stitch back to left hand needle, turn.
◦ (WS) Purl 5 stitches, p2tog, p1. Slip last stitch back to left hand needle, turn.
◦ *Knit to gap created between stitches, knit the two stitches on either side of the gap together, knit one, slip back to left needle, turn. Purl to gap created between stitches, purl the two stitches on either side of the gap together, purl one, slip back to left needle, turn.*
Repeat between ** until there are no more gaps. You now have 14 stitches on your heel
needle.
◦ Pick up 13 stitches from the loops created on the sides of the heel rectangle, knit across.
◦ Knit across top of foot (the 24 stitches held in reserve are now live again.)
◦ Pick up 13 stitches from the loops on the other side. I find I need to knit in the back loop and twist these stitches to avoid gapping.
◦ Knit 7, place mid point marker if you wish. At this point it may be advantageous to use another dpn. If you use another needle, you now have 2 needles at the top of the foot with 12 stitches, and 2 needles at the bottom of the foot with 19 stitches.
• Gusset and decreasing to foot size again: *Knit to 3 before the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1. Knit across the two upper foot needles, on 4th needle k1, ssk, knit to end. Knit one row even.* (Sometimes I elect not to knit one row between the decrease rows, whether you do or not all depends on how rapidly YOUR foot decreases in circumference.) Repeat between ** until you have 48 stitches again.
• At this point you're just knitting in the round for the length of your foot. 2 inches before the end of your foot, start decreasing for the toe.
◦ Toe: I've tried a couple of different toes with this sock, the best I've come up with is a mitten closure, as the yarn is fine enough that some other decreases create annoying gaps.
Use the toe you like best, by all means.
◦ Knit 5, k2tog, repeat to end of row. (Leave the leftover stitches, they will be accounted for later.)
◦ Knit 5 rows even.
◦ Knit 4, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 4 rows even.
◦ Knit 3, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 3 rows even.
◦ Knit 2, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 2 rows even.
◦ Knit 1, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 1 row even.
◦ K2tog, repeat to end of row. Break off yarn, pass through remaining loops, weave in ends.
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Smoooshy knee-high socks
(use sock weight yarn; this makes socks that are lightweight and for the most part stay up on their
own.)
Needles size 5 double point (use 4-5)
• Cast on 60 stitches, distribute in a round.
• Work k2 p2 ribbing for 20 rows. (From here I have started over with row 1, numbered rows do
not refer to ribbing.)
• Knit 6 rows in stockinette.
• 7th row of stockinette, knit 2, increase 1. Knit 3 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 10th row knit 4 inc. 1. Knit to 5 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 13th row knit 6 inc. 1. Knit to 7 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 16th row knit 8 inc. 1. Knit to 9 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 9 rows even.
• 26th row knit 10 inc. 1. Knit to 11 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end. (70 stitches)
• Knit 13 rows even.
• 40th row knit 9 k2tog. Knit to 11 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 43rd row knit 8 k2tog. Knit to 10 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 46th row knit 7 k2tog. Knit to 9 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 49th row knit 6 k2tog. Knit to 8 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 52nd row knit 5 k2tog. Knit to 7 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 55th row knit 4 k2tog. Knit to 6 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 58th row knit 3 k2tog. Knit to 5 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 61st row knit 2 k2tog. Knit to 4 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 64th row knit 1 k2tog. Knit to 3 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• 65th row AND 66th row, k2tog, knit to 2 before end of row, ssk. (48 stitches)
• Knit 38 rows even, or the length of the rest of your leg.
• Heel: I favor a half handkerchief heel. With 48 stitches, divide 24 onto one needle and reserve the other half. This heel is worked back and forth and then rejoined to the rest of the sock once it has been turned.
◦ ON 24 STITCHES, *(RS) slip one, knit one, repeat to end of row, turn.
◦ (WS) Slip one, purl to end of row, turn.* Repeat between ** 9 times (18 rows)
◦ You now have a rectangle with long knit stitches on one side and floats on the other. I like the durability of this heel, it's also a little cushion for stiff shoes.
◦ Turn the heel: (RS) Knit 14 stitches (this is half plus 2), k2tog, k1. Slip last stitch back to left hand needle, turn.
◦ (WS) Purl 5 stitches, p2tog, p1. Slip last stitch back to left hand needle, turn.
◦ *Knit to gap created between stitches, knit the two stitches on either side of the gap together, knit one, slip back to left needle, turn. Purl to gap created between stitches, purl the two stitches on either side of the gap together, purl one, slip back to left needle, turn.*
Repeat between ** until there are no more gaps. You now have 14 stitches on your heel
needle.
◦ Pick up 13 stitches from the loops created on the sides of the heel rectangle, knit across.
◦ Knit across top of foot (the 24 stitches held in reserve are now live again.)
◦ Pick up 13 stitches from the loops on the other side. I find I need to knit in the back loop and twist these stitches to avoid gapping.
◦ Knit 7, place mid point marker if you wish. At this point it may be advantageous to use another dpn. If you use another needle, you now have 2 needles at the top of the foot with 12 stitches, and 2 needles at the bottom of the foot with 19 stitches.
• Gusset and decreasing to foot size again: *Knit to 3 before the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1. Knit across the two upper foot needles, on 4th needle k1, ssk, knit to end. Knit one row even.* (Sometimes I elect not to knit one row between the decrease rows, whether you do or not all depends on how rapidly YOUR foot decreases in circumference.) Repeat between ** until you have 48 stitches again.
• At this point you're just knitting in the round for the length of your foot. 2 inches before the end of your foot, start decreasing for the toe.
◦ Toe: I've tried a couple of different toes with this sock, the best I've come up with is a mitten closure, as the yarn is fine enough that some other decreases create annoying gaps.
Use the toe you like best, by all means.
◦ Knit 5, k2tog, repeat to end of row. (Leave the leftover stitches, they will be accounted for later.)
◦ Knit 5 rows even.
◦ Knit 4, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 4 rows even.
◦ Knit 3, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 3 rows even.
◦ Knit 2, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 2 rows even.
◦ Knit 1, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 1 row even.
◦ K2tog, repeat to end of row. Break off yarn, pass through remaining loops, weave in ends.
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