Smoooshy Knee High Socks

I have seriously bicycle-burly calves, and therefore a lot of the knee high patterns I find, I have to alter or give up on, or knit on slightly bigger needles. I experimented with size 5DPNs and sock weight yarn, and came up with this pattern, which I'm rather happy about.

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Smoooshy knee-high socks
(use sock weight yarn; this makes socks that are lightweight and for the most part stay up on their
own.)
Needles size 5 double point (use 4-5)

• Cast on 60 stitches, distribute in a round.
• Work k2 p2 ribbing for 20 rows. (From here I have started over with row 1, numbered rows do
not refer to ribbing.)
• Knit 6 rows in stockinette.
• 7th row of stockinette, knit 2, increase 1. Knit 3 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 10th row knit 4 inc. 1. Knit to 5 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 13th row knit 6 inc. 1. Knit to 7 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 16th row knit 8 inc. 1. Knit to 9 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end.
• Knit 9 rows even.
• 26th row knit 10 inc. 1. Knit to 11 before end of row, inc. 1 knit to end. (70 stitches)
• Knit 13 rows even.
• 40th row knit 9 k2tog. Knit to 11 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 43rd row knit 8 k2tog. Knit to 10 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 46th row knit 7 k2tog. Knit to 9 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 49th row knit 6 k2tog. Knit to 8 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 52nd row knit 5 k2tog. Knit to 7 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 55th row knit 4 k2tog. Knit to 6 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 58th row knit 3 k2tog. Knit to 5 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 61st row knit 2 k2tog. Knit to 4 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• Knit 2 rows even.
• 64th row knit 1 k2tog. Knit to 3 before end of row, ssk, knit to end.
• 65th row AND 66th row, k2tog, knit to 2 before end of row, ssk. (48 stitches)
• Knit 38 rows even, or the length of the rest of your leg.

• Heel: I favor a half handkerchief heel. With 48 stitches, divide 24 onto one needle and reserve the other half. This heel is worked back and forth and then rejoined to the rest of the sock once it has been turned.
◦ ON 24 STITCHES, *(RS) slip one, knit one, repeat to end of row, turn.
◦ (WS) Slip one, purl to end of row, turn.* Repeat between ** 9 times (18 rows)
◦ You now have a rectangle with long knit stitches on one side and floats on the other. I like the durability of this heel, it's also a little cushion for stiff shoes.
◦ Turn the heel: (RS) Knit 14 stitches (this is half plus 2), k2tog, k1. Slip last stitch back to left hand needle, turn.
◦ (WS) Purl 5 stitches, p2tog, p1. Slip last stitch back to left hand needle, turn.
◦ *Knit to gap created between stitches, knit the two stitches on either side of the gap together, knit one, slip back to left needle, turn. Purl to gap created between stitches, purl the two stitches on either side of the gap together, purl one, slip back to left needle, turn.*
Repeat between ** until there are no more gaps. You now have 14 stitches on your heel
needle.
◦ Pick up 13 stitches from the loops created on the sides of the heel rectangle, knit across.
◦ Knit across top of foot (the 24 stitches held in reserve are now live again.)
◦ Pick up 13 stitches from the loops on the other side. I find I need to knit in the back loop and twist these stitches to avoid gapping.
◦ Knit 7, place mid point marker if you wish. At this point it may be advantageous to use another dpn. If you use another needle, you now have 2 needles at the top of the foot with 12 stitches, and 2 needles at the bottom of the foot with 19 stitches.
• Gusset and decreasing to foot size again: *Knit to 3 before the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1. Knit across the two upper foot needles, on 4th needle k1, ssk, knit to end. Knit one row even.* (Sometimes I elect not to knit one row between the decrease rows, whether you do or not all depends on how rapidly YOUR foot decreases in circumference.) Repeat between ** until you have 48 stitches again.
• At this point you're just knitting in the round for the length of your foot. 2 inches before the end of your foot, start decreasing for the toe.
◦ Toe: I've tried a couple of different toes with this sock, the best I've come up with is a mitten closure, as the yarn is fine enough that some other decreases create annoying gaps.
Use the toe you like best, by all means.
◦ Knit 5, k2tog, repeat to end of row. (Leave the leftover stitches, they will be accounted for later.)
◦ Knit 5 rows even.
◦ Knit 4, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 4 rows even.
◦ Knit 3, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 3 rows even.
◦ Knit 2, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 2 rows even.
◦ Knit 1, k2tog, repeat to end of row.
◦ Knit 1 row even.
◦ K2tog, repeat to end of row. Break off yarn, pass through remaining loops, weave in ends.